General Print issues
This is an instructional video you can use as reference for the assembly of your printer. There have been some changes since, follow the directions of the manual where there are differences.
Print slower. While its possible to print up to 70mm./ sec, the mass inertia of the moving parts could give print problems when moving at those speeds. Only rounded or organic shaped forms without infill can be printed fast. But it's recommended to start slow and gradually increase speeds while printing. Remember to either pause and stop the print before it ends or to lower the speed gradually again. If you don't the increased speed setting might affect your print when the head is moved back to its 0 position...
Another thing you can try is to increase power to the Y motor by adjusting the screw on the corresponding stepper driver. Turn it clockwise about 5 to 10 degrees.
Check the belt tension. If it's too low, loosen the two bolts under the front idler pully and pull the bracket. Tighten while holding it in place.
In some cases the two black screws holding the pully to the motorshaft have come loose. You can tighten those with a small Van Allen key. They are located inside the pully.
Lubricate the spindle with acid free petroleum jelly (vaseline).
In some cases the two black screws holding the pully to the motorshaft or the pully holding the spindle have come loose. You can tighten those with a small Van Allen key. They are located inside the pullies.
If this is the first time you are using the printer, check the cables. If that does not solve the issue make sure the cables are in the correct slot (if the extruder is hot to the touch you will need to order a new motor and driver).
Does the extruder turn when pulled from its barrel? Then you might solve the issue by increasing the power to the motor. This is done by turning the screw on the corresponding stepper on the electronics board clockwise (see our manuals for details).
follow these steps to fully service your extruder. If its just some clay or some hard piece you need to remove, just water brush, grease the top smooth part of the auger and reassemble.
There are multiple causes that can lead to this.
See #05 video for cleaning instructions It is possible the screw is stuck inside, this sometimes happens when there is excess clay pushed between the top (smooth) part of the screw and the barrel. This clay will become dehydrated and eventually stuck between the parts. That happens when there is no grease left to keep the clay dust smooth.
Some re-greasing should solve the issue.
To get the auger-screw out, loosen the lower screw in the Flexible aluminium coupling between the motor and the screw (small black thing, use a Van Allen key to turn it). Then unlock the motor part as usual and use pliers to dislodge and pull the screw out. It's best to scrub the barrel and clean the screw.
The best procedure to fix the screw back to the flexcoupling is:
-unscrew the top screw of the flexicoupler.
-push the coupler up a bit and clean everything.
(take care of the two rubber seals)
-grease the seals when cleaned and push them back between the bayonet coupler and the flexi couple.
(the big and the small seal need to slide in at the same time)
-grease the top (smooth) part of the screw, also around the seal but not the smaller bit that fits the flexicoupler.
-now push the flexicoupler down while inserting the screw back in and tighten the lower screw in the flexicoupler.
-before tightening the top screw in the flexicoupler push it down a bit so that is gives maximum down pressure but with a little play left in the coupling (push the Van Allen key you would use to loosen the auger barrel from the bracket between the motor and the couple as a good reference).
-you can now twist lock the motorpart back onto the barrel.
The above procedure gives you enough down pressure for regular pint output with harder clay mixes as it stops the screw from up and downward motion. When reattaching the motor part to the barrel some grease will come out on top, this is normal, you can wipe it away with a tissue.
At low speeds the motor has more power and can push through difficult sections in a print.
Some sliced Gcode can have issues with start stop sequences resulting in odd behavior during prints.
This is when the start code does not have an acceleration parameter (stops abruptly and starts at full speed again).
The motor has not enough torque to get going again and stalls.
Try re-slicing or print at slower speeds.
Another option is to increase pressure and lower flow (in the controlbox) but this is only possible if the clay is not too soft or hard.
If it's too hard it will press the auger to to barrel and stall.
If it's too soft you will get clay ooze from the tip when the turning of the auger stops.
Check if there is clay or other particles in or on the cable connector.
Check the cable connection under the base, if they were pulled they might not signal correctly.
Disconnect the extruder from the printer and lower it into a glass with water.
Make sure it's not submerged above the middle of the flexicoupler under the motor and gear housing! Leave it to soak for about an hour. If that does not work follow the steps in #04. and dismantle the extruder for cleaning.